my makes

Black and Ultraviolet Anais and Celine set

Closet Core Patterns recently released a lingerie pattern collection featuring F O U R gorgeous patterns! I couldn’t help but swipe up the Celine Bralette and Anais Panties on the day they were released. I’ve made one set so far and it is true love for me!

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

The promotional photos for these patterns featured a lot of simple, basic black mesh, which inspired me to turn to my all-time favorite soft stretch mesh. I used the new Ultraviolet elastics and I’m obsessed with the color combination. I made a few decisions about the designs and a few changes (based on my materials) that I’ll tell you more about.

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

The Celine Bralette is described as “for everyday wear and casual lounging,” so I went ahead and cut the whole dang thing from soft black stretch mesh. Based on my measurements, I cut a size 8 with A/B cups (my underbust is about 80cm and my full bust is about 90cm). I made View A with the darted cup and extra stripey bit at the neckline, but I used the straight back bands from View B. (I can’t wait to make more of these and experiment with fabrics and different textures for this piece.)

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

Really wanting to use my 11mm scalloped underband elastic in Ultraviolet, I skipped the fabric-covered underband and ended up with more narrow bands, leading me to use a 30mm hook and eye, instead of the suggested 38mm one. I could’ve altered the pattern going into it, and I may do that on a future one, but luckily this did work fine for me. Your results may vary, of course! I made sure to measure and check the size of the back bands before attaching the underband and foldover elastics to make sure that my hook and eye closures would fit.

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

I do have to be honest that I did not read the instructions that closely! I’m sure they’re wonderful. I have other Closet Core patterns, and the clarity of the instructions is great for things like the Ginger Jeans or Kalle Shirtdress, but for me personally, I felt like I could zip through a simple bralette and panty set on my own. The only thing I didn’t look at closely is that the cup piece should’ve been doubled; mine ended up being a single layer. Oops!

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

For the Anais panties, I made the low-rise version of View A with foldover elastic. I am a BIG FAN of low-rise panties. It’s mind-boggling to be on the wrong side of a trend, but I do *not* enjoy high-waist or high-cut legs, so the option for low-rise made me so happy! Hey, we’ve all got our own preferences. For my all-mesh version, the panels felt a bit unnecessary, but I’m already planning more versions with jersey and color-blocking, and having side panels will be great for contrast. I made a size 12 (my waist is 77cm and hips are 102cm) and it fit well.

What to say about panty construction? Everything came together perfectly! If you’ve ever made panties, then these are nothing new.

Celine and Anais lingerie set with black mesh and ultraviolet elastics by Small Bobbins

The fit is great. For me personally, with my, *ahem*, small bobbins, an all-mesh bralette works for everyday wear. These gals don’t require much! If I wanted to increase the level of support, I would make a few fabric decisions. Since the back bands and cups consist of two layers, I could cut the mesh in opposing directions, or *not* in the direction of greatest stretch, for additional support. Or, one layer could be replaced with a firmer mesh, powermesh, powernet, etc.

Here’s a list of materials I used:

I already mentioned some ideas for future Celine and Anais sets, but I’ll also likely use my 30mm wide band elastics on the underband to see if that offers a bit more support. Playing around with transparency and colors too, textures like bamboo jersey and lace; there are so many possibilities!

How to make a pair of garter panties

I’m soooo happy with one of my latest lingerie sets: a pair of beige Courlis Stockings trimmed with this super fun black argyle trim, with a matching pair of high-waisted garter-panties! I wanted a way to show-off the argyle trim, and once I got this idea stuck in my head, I had to see it through!

Argyle Courlis Stockings kit
Argyle Courlis Stockings kit

I started with the Noelle Panties pattern by Madalynne Intimates. It’s a free pattern, and one that I’ve made several times before, so I already knew that I liked the fit. This method would probably fit any of your favorite panty patterns though, so feel free to adapt!

The argyle trim is exactly 57mm wide, which matches exactly with the 3×3 hook and eye closures that I carry in the shop. A lot of garter belts that I see online make use of hook and eye closures in the back, so it felt like an easy way to ensure that I could get the panties on and off. (Actually, the trim is very stretchy, so I probably could’ve skipped this!)

Argyle Courlis Stockings kit

I didn’t want to add the height of the trim to the top of the panties, so before I cut out the main fabric for the panties, I laid the argyle trim on top of the paper pattern pieces and chopped that off the height of the front and back. (Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the top if you’re particular about that extra bit of height!)

I also wanted to make this pair a bit more interesting than a basic pair of panties, so I took my ruler and just drew a straight line at an angle from the back waistline to the CB to make a V-shaped cut-out. Not too deep that my rear would be falling out the back, but deep enough to make it count! I didn’t add any sort of seam allowance to this cut-out because I planned to cover it in foldover elastic.

Argyle Courlis Stockings kit

For construction order, first I covered the V-shape on the back panty piece with foldover elastic. I snipped a teeny bit at the center point to make it easier to pivot the elastic, and then afterwards, I folded the back panty piece in half (right sides together) and used a straight stitch over the foldover elastic at the point to make it look nice and sharp.

Next, I attached the front, back, and gusset pieces together at the back seam, covered the legs with black foldover elastic, and then sewed the side seams together. Next, I sewed four adjustable garter straps using 50cm of 12mm strap elastic, and a matching black slider and garter clip for each one. Honestly, these could’ve been shorter, but my stockings also ended up quite tall, so your results may vary!

Argyle Courlis Stockings kit

To determine how much argyle trim I needed for my waistband, I took some (just by itself) and fitted it around my waist where I knew the panties would hit. The argyle trim is suuuuper stretchy, and it’s a good, stable stretch, but not incredibly firm. I didn’t want it to be too loose, and I didn’t want the trim to be overstretched, so once I found the right fit for me, I added a bit to the ends for seam allowance and cut my preferred length.

I pinned my garter straps and just eye-balled the placement, trying to make sure they were as symmetrical as possible. I sewed the hook and eye closure to the ends of the trim, and then pinned the trim in place. It didn’t match evenly, which I anticipated, and I did have to stretch the trim to fit the panties. I simply overlapped the argyle trim on top of the panties, and back-tacked over the straps to make sure they were secure.

Argyle Courlis Stockings kit

And, voila! That’s it! The whole set came out exactly how I envisioned it, and I even made a simple triangle bralette to go with it, using the argyle trim as the underband. I love that it feels secure enough to hold up the stockings, without squeezing, of course!

The materials that I used to make this set can be purchased as a kit, and you can even add the Courlis Stockings PDF sewing pattern to the kit to receive a discount on the pattern!

Black Tessellation and Lycra Maris Bralette and Panty

Showing off my next set that I made with the new Madalynne patterns and kits, this is the Maris Bralette and Panties! I recently got this Black Tessellation stretch mesh in stock and have been (im)patiently waiting for the opportunity to use it. It only stretches in one direction, but I wanted to demonstrate how that shouldn’t hold you back from using it! Bralettes and panties usually only require stretch that goes around your body horizontally, so as long as you position the fabric correctly, it should work perfectly!

And in the case of this set, it definitely did!

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

Here’s a quick overview of this project.

I sewed a size Small for the bralette, cup size A/B. For the panties, I sewed a Medium. You’ll notice that the shape of the cups is very similar between the Maris and the Fenix Bodysuit, and I’ll use these Maris cups for both patterns going forward. On my next Maris, I’ll add some width to the back piece (it’s a particular fitting issue I notice with my body, I have a bit of a wider back relative to my cup size!).

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

For the panties, I used a smaller piece of fabric than what’s included with the kits (always thrifty with my scraps!) so instead of cutting the back panty piece on the fold, I added seam allowance and cut it in two pieces.

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

I used my new 30mm shiny band elastic on both the bralette and panties instead of the matte elastic that I originally planned with this kit, and I really like the result! The shiny elastic is a bit softer and more stretchy, plus it elevates the whole set with a touch of glam. (The matte elastic would be perfect for a sportier look!)

The lycra is opaque and supportive, and the tessellation mesh is fairly stable, so I skipped lining any of the pieces. I also made the bralette a pullover style and omitted any closures.

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

I used 18mm strap elastic as the wide elastic that lines the top of the back piece. That, plus the 30mm wide band elastic that I used, are both a bit shorter than the elastics Madalynne drafted the pattern for, so I had to chop a bit off of the bottom of the cups so that the side seams matched. On my next version, I would make the pattern piece for the back band larger to make up for the difference.

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

The boning and channeling was easy to apply (the channeling in this kit is suuuper thin, I searched far and wide to find a type that was easy to sew, but still soft and supportive!). I was tempted to skip it, but it does help the bralette feel more secure and stay in place.

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

Both pieces came together quickly and easily; there aren’t any unfamiliar techniques if you’ve sewn a couple panties and bralettes already. The panties are a medium/high-rise thong, and I may play around to lower the rise a bit on my next pair (personally, the waist doesn’t hit my favorite spot on me!).

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit

I love the result! It’s sporty and geometric, comfortable but stylish, everyday but special. If you want to make your own set, you can buy the Black Tessellation and Lycra Maris kit while supplies last, and add the Maris Bralette and Panty pattern to your kit with a 20% discount! Don’t forget to check out the other Madalynne kits for the Lawren BodysuitFenix Bodysuit, and Roxie Bralette, and I’ll show you more soon!

Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit
Black Tessellation Maris Bralette and Panty kit
Black tessellation Maris bralette and panty kit

Forest Green and Beige leafy mesh Fenix Bodysuit

I recently got the opportunity to start stocking PDF sewing patterns from Madalynne in the shop, and it’s been really fun to create a whole bunch of new kits to match perfectly with these four patterns! I can tell that it’s easier to visualize the possibilities with a lingerie-making kit if I make a sample garment, so I’m going to be going through most of the kits to show off what the finished product could look like.

First up, a Fenix Bodysuit using the Forest Green and Beige kit. The beige fabric has a meandering vine motif that looks seasonal when paired with the forest green stretch mesh without being confined to being too autumnal. Honestly, the beige fabric is such a subtle neutral that you could easily swap all the forest green parts for navy blue, terra cotta, or even black!

Forest green and beige vines Fenix bodysuit kit

Here’s a quick project overview for my Fenix Bodysuit.

Going with the size chart, I should’ve cut a Large and a C/D cup, but in my heart of hearts, I know I’m an A/B cup, so I went with that instead. On future Fenix bodysuits, I’ll adjust the cup pieces to remove some more volume, but everything else about the bodysuit fit well!

I took some liberties with the materials that I used compared to the pattern suggestions. I wanted a light, sheer bodysuit, so I skipped a lining on most pieces where it was called for. The lower bralette cups are made with both forest green mesh and powernet, and the upper part of the bralette includes forest green mesh under the beige fabric (I love the way it makes the leaf pattern pop more!). For the back band and panty panels, I just used a single layer of fabric. The kits include enough fabric to allow for all kinds of combinations!

Forest green and beige vines Fenix bodysuit kit

Originally, I had planned to use peach-colored wide elastic as the underband, but then this shiny, forest green version arrived (it was custom dyed to match all of the other forest green materials and elastics!) and of course I couldn’t resist using it. I love the bit of luxury that the satiny band brings.

The 30mm elastic band is a bit more narrow than the pattern’s suggestion, so I swapped in a 38mm, 2×3 hook and eye closure (instead of the 57mm, 3×3 closure that’s suggested) and I was sure to trim off a bit of the back band before sewing on the foldover elastic and attaching the closure.

I decided to add snaps to my bodysuit. It’s optional, of course, but I have one bodysuit that I made as a test version in the past, without snaps, and that prevents me from wearing it much more often, so I made sure not to make that mistake again! I have press snaps in the shop (and I include a strip of iron-on interfacing with each purchase) so I used those to create the snap closure. It’s such a small change, but on my next one, I need to remember to swap which sides of the snaps go on which side of the gusset!

Forest green Fenix Bodysuit

I’m really pleased with how it came out! It’s exactly how I thought it would be when I created this kit. It was my first time using the Fenix pattern too and I realized that it’s super easy to stop at one point and have a fully finished bralette, which makes it a much more versatile pattern than I thought!

You can find this kit in the shop while supplies last, and get a 20% discount on the pattern when you add it to your kit! Don’t forget to check out the other Madalynne kits for the Lawren Bodysuit, Maris Bralette, and Roxie Bralette, and I’ll show you more soon!

Forest green Fenix Bodysuit kit

Sew a Halloween-inspired pentagram bra

With Spooky Season upon us, it’s no surprise that black, strappy lingerie has started popping up on my inspiration boards, and it didn’t take long for me to start brainstorming how I could integrate an upside-down pentagram onto a bra. A strappy detail like this could be incorporated into lots of different bra patterns, but here are some tips that I picked up from making my version!

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

(Psst, if you want to get everything you need to copy my longline bra, you can purchase this as a kit!)

I had an idea to color-block the front using our amaaaazingly soft and luxurious black stretch velvet, and contrast it with a single layer of black bra tulle. Bra tulle is incredibly light and transparent, but also rigid and supportive. It has a tiny bit of mechanical give in one direction, and you can add another layer (cut in the opposite direction) for a bit more strength. (The kit also includes the option to add sheer cup lining, which is even more stable and rigid.)

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

To create the color-blocking effect, I cut the front pattern piece along the boning guidelines, and added seam allowance to each piece. The velvet piece does have a piece of bra tulle behind it, because the front of the bra needs to be non-stretch. I simply layered the two pieces and treated them as one piece. I sewed the new “side front” bra tulle pieces to the “center front” velvet/bra tulle piece, and then made the rest of the bra as instructed. One benefit of the color-blocking is that it made it super easy to add the front boning pieces and make them symmetrical later on!

I used the stretch velvet for the cups without any lining, but I could’ve used stretch mesh or stretch tulle for a bit of extra support. I finished the neckline and the top of the bridge with foldover elastic all in one pass, but honestly, it would have been easier to finish each cup edge and the top of the bridge separately.

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

I just used a layer of black powernet for the back bands, but I could’ve covered them in black velvet too. Everything else went as instructed for this bra, a 75mm hook and eye closure, underwire channeling, boning, plunge underwires, etc etc etc.

One small difference from the instructions, and purely by mistake, is that I flipped the channeling for the underwires up into the cups, rather than down onto the cradle. For me, it didn’t affect the fit and actually I’m glad that I don’t have the extra seams and stitching on the cradle to break up the simple, transparent look.

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

And now the straps! These absolutely stumped me, and it took a lot of trial and error, pinning and re-pinning, stitching straps and cutting them off and re-stitching them and cutting them off again, until I settled on the final version.

Initially I planned to anchor the star to the regular strap points at the tops of the cups (that’s why I have 15mm rings there), but the horizontal strap pulled the cups inwards, which caused gaping in the neckline. I tried crossing the shoulder straps to incorporate into the star, but the end result never looked right. After looking up other examples, I decided to ignore the shoulder straps and make the star it’s own separate thing.

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

I also experimented with the straps looping around my neck in different ways, and adding a g-hook closure at the back of my neck made it super simple to put the bra on; once I unhook the straps at the neck, the whole star detail just flops forward, and I can take the bra off normally.

The choker part leads to two 15mm rings (I’m using 12mm elastic, so I sized up the rings to accommodate for two straps), and the straps connect from there to either the center-front ring or a midpoint along the neckline. The lengths of the straps were mostly determined by holding up a measuring tape to my chest and adding about 1cm on each side for attaching them. It was tough to find a balance between lengths that weren’t too long (then the straps were too slack and it distorted the star) or too short (then it pulled the bra uncomfortably, or the choker), but I got there eventually. Usually, I (carefully) pinned strap pieces into place before stitching them for good.

Black Velvet Halloween longline bra

Things I could’ve done differently? I could’ve made each star strap adjustable, but the order of operations was frying my brain, plus I didn’t want to introduce extra pieces into the nice, smooth lines of my star.

I could’ve added rings to where the straps connected to the neckline, but I felt like it would’ve shrunk my star too much. With the size of strap elastic that I used, I felt like it needed the extra space.

I could’ve used a more narrow elastic! I have 10mm, 5mm (with a snazzy diamond design), and 4mm black elastic in the shop, any of these would’ve been fine to use for a more delicate looking star!

But overall, I’m really thrilled with how this piece came out, the velvet is gorgeous and the star is really fun! It’s great to have an idea like this and be able to bring it to life!

Making and altering the Eloise set

Have you seen the latest pattern release by Madalynne Intimates, the Eloise bralette and panties? She asked me to be a pattern tester (ahh fan girl moment!) and I could not refuse! These pieces are gorgeous and unique, with asymmetrical lace details and delicate narrow straps. In Maddie’s initial email to me, she described the fit of the Eloise as similar to the Barrett, drafted for people with a fuller chest and smaller rib cage.

Oooh… that could be an issue for me,” was my first thought. I have a smaller chest (ahem, “small bobbins“) and wider ribs/back, and when I last made the Barrett bralette (for the Free Bralette Pattern Review series! check out the results video here, and blog here), I found that fit wasn’t great for me; the cups were wrinkled, telling me that I needed less volume.

With this in mind, I still really wanted to make the Eloise. I started out by making a muslin/test version with some materials that I had in my personal stash (not my shop!). I needed to get an idea of what exactly needed to be changed before I used my nicer materials.

Here’s the first version!

It’s pretty hard to see; the black and red don’t give a great indication of the fit issues, but as I suspected, the cups were baggy. The band fit fine, and since it calls for a wide elastic band, it was comfortable and forgiving.

I also found some issues with the fit of the panties and my somewhat flat derriere that I wanted to address for my final version.

For the bralette, I knew that I wanted to reduce cup volume by making the curve of the cup seams less dramatic.

The above photo shows the original pattern piece underneath the altered pattern piece. Quite a lot of volume! For both front cup pieces and the lace overlay pieces, I found the apex (the part the stuck out furthest on the curve), and then marked about ~1/2″ in from there. Then, using one of my curved rulers, I made a new line the connected the top and bottom of the pattern piece with that new mark. It’s a very gentle curve (I have a very small chest!). And, when calculating the amount that I lopped off, there’s 2″ less fabric going into the final version. (I briefly thought… do I need to add this amount back somewhere else? side seam? something? but I decided against it; I really was wanting to remove excess fabric, not redistribute it.)

There you can see the four pieces that I did alter (I didn’t do anything to the other three, those are just a standard medium!).

For the panties, I started by sizing down from a Medium to a Small. I found the rise to be awkwardly high in the back (my thinking is, if I had the booty it was drafted for, that extra fabric would’ve been used to cover more surface area), so I lowered the back by about ~1/2″ (it’s the darker, non-dashed line on pattern piece #12 below) and then just sorta shaved off a bit from the matching front leg seam on piece #11 (panty front) so that the side seam would match.

This worked! I did end up losing some of that more dramatic, high waist look of the panties, but I’m still happy with the results.

I made up my final version using materials from my mint green, mauve, and light pink bralette and panty kit. The mint green mesh is soft, stretchy, with a bit of stability (I’d say it’s closer to my stretch tulle than a typical stretch mesh), but it’s limited edition, ex-designer stock so it won’t be around for long! The mauve lace, pink elastics, and rose gold hardware work beautifully with the light green, and then I used my ivory narrow elastic for the spaghetti strap details (which also comes in black). For the wide elastic band, I dug in my stash for this super fun gold and white elastic. It’s surprisingly soft! The gold is only on one side, so there’s nothing scratchy against my skin. I have two 2-meter pieces left that I may put up in the shop as remnants.

I hope this was a useful tutorial! If you remember my Free Bralette Pattern Review results video, I mentioned that several of the bralettes had too much cup volume, so this is definitely a method that I’m going to use for altering future bralettes as well.

If anybody else has seen any great tutorials on fitting lingerie, feel free to mention them in the comments!

Free Bralette Patterns Review: Part 6-All done!

Ta da!! The sixth video in my series on making and reviewing ten free bralette patterns is now live on Youtube and it’s the exciting conclusion where I model all 10 bralettes (and the matching underwear I made for each of them).

This video isn’t so long as the other ones, so I don’t feel bad about not re-summarizing the whole video here on the blog. 😉 Here’s the short version though:

  • Darcy bralette: cute, a big, but wearable.
  • Raquel bralette: too tight! This is my own fault though and I’m going to try to fix it.
  • Barrett bralette: cups are too big/too wrinkly. I may try to salvage this one.
  • Hyacinth bralette: great! I love the sporty look with the simple grey material, and the velvet foldover elastic adds such a nice touch!
  • Lovesick bralette: super comfortable, but not very supportive.
  • Milla bralette: amazing! Probably my favorite of the bunch!
  • Sierra bralette: too tight, but I will try to save this one.
  • Mood wrap: Surprisingly, this one fits pretty well (maybe a bit too big, but still very wearable).
  • Noelle bralette: loooove it, but not a surprise since I’ve made this one before.
  • Rosie bralette: a bit tight, not sure if I’ll try to fix this or just deal with it when I want to wear it.

While most of the bralettes are wearable, I found that most of them seemed a bit on the big side in terms of cup volume. It’s not surprising at all, considering my “small bobbins” (har har har), and I’m motivated now to try to figure out a reliable way to fix this for future bralettes I might want to make (that are probably drafted for B/C cups).

So! Have I convinced you to try any of these bralettes? Or do you have any ideas for my next lingerie-making series? As long as it doesn’t involve making ten sets of lingerie, I’d probably be open to hearing about it 😉

September 2019 Makes

I actually sewed some things last month! (besides a lot of panties and bralettes, of course) My September Makes vlog is up on my Youtube channel now, so you can see these three garments in motion and hear my thoughts about them.

First up, the Penny shirt/dress by Sew Over It. The pattern is for a dress, but I used a hack published on the Sew Over It blog to transform it into a tie-front shirt. The end result feels very rockabilly to me! I like it, but I would add more length to a future version.

Next is the Justine skirt, a free pattern for a midi-length, button-front pleated skirt from Ready to Sew. Looooove how this turned out, using a designer wool remnant I picked up from the Fabric Sales years ago. It’s a thin wool (like, for men’s suit pants) and the weight is just perfect for this skirt without being too heavy, but it will still be nice and warm for Fall and Winter.

And the last garment I made last month is the Trapeze bodysuit, a pattern by Studio Calicot (formerly known as Kommatia Patterns). I’m a big fan of bodysuits, and I love the dramatic open back! Plus, the yoke going across the shoulder blades is great for helping to ensure the shoulders don’t just flop out of the whole thing. I’m not sure if I’d rush into making a second version, because I don’t desperately need another open-backed bodysuit, but I’m really happy with how this one turned out.

I don’t have many definite garment plans for October (and, ouf, we’re already half way through the month!) other than lots of lingerie (as usual), but I hope you enjoyed seeing these three garments that I made!

Vlog series: Free Underwear Patterns Review, results!

The last video in my little vlog series is now live! I talk about a few of my particular favorites from the bunch and then show off my bottom for the camera, eek! All the patterns I used from the series are listed and linked below, plus my thoughts and feelings on each one!

Acacia panties, by Megan Nielsen

This one was one of my favorites. The bum coverage is maybe a bit more than I’d prefer, but I love the gentle curve on the back piece that gives some nice shaping in that area. Plus, I happened to pick a great fabric and good-quality elastic, so the finished result is really pleasing.

Be Bashful Bikini, by At First Blush Patterns

This one gets a nice boost from the good fabric/elastic combo that I also used with the Acacia panties. The higher cut on the leg is interesting, but not my first preference.

Celeste Bikini, by Ohhh Lulu

This one is my favorite, despite that, when I took in the side seams, it resulted in them looking pretty messed up. Initially they were pretty big, so I will make alterations directly to the paper pattern moving forward. I like the low waistline on these best out of all the patterns.

Maxine high-waist panties, by Evie la Luve

Compared directly with the Noelle high-waist panties, I found that these had a higher waist (it came over my belly button) and the legs were cut higher. So, more legs and less waist. Personally, I don’t really have any outfits where these panties fit well underneath, but now that the weather is warming up, they’ve been perfect for sleeping in!

Noelle high-waist panties, by Madalynne Intimates

Compared to the Maxine, these had a slightly lower rise on the waist, and lower legs. They do fit perfectly underneath my high-waisted pants, although I’m not generally a fan, I’ve discovered, of wearing so much fabric underneath my clothes.

Noelle high-waist thong, by Madalynne Intimates

Eeeek! I almost didn’t show these, because they are scandalous! Really high-cut legs and yeah, of course, no bum coverage. That, plus the high waist, plus a weird fit issue in the back (almost like the part that connects from the front to the back is too… long?), means that I very rarely wear these. I think I’ve established that I’m not much for high-waisted underwear though, so I’m not surprised.

Pants pattern, by So Zo, What do you Know

A really solid basic, leans on the “more coverage” side of the underwear spectrum, and the fabric that I used means that this is an enjoyable pair to wear!

Rosy Ladyshorts, by Cloth Habit

I ended up really liking the fit of these, something about the combination of the low-waist plus the low-legs means that it doesn’t end up feeling skimpy at all. These definitely had the narrowest, ahem, gusset piece out of all the panties (besides the thong, of course), which might be something that I’ll adjust for future pairs.

Hipster panties, by Make Bra

So, these are certainly full-coverage. Practically high-waist too! But, somehow I really like them. I can’t wear them under many of my garments, but I am pretty impressed by how they look on my booty.

Stevie Knickers, by Paper Theory

Another really solid basic! Another that’s a bit more on the full-coverage side, not too high-waisted but not too low either, a comfortable low cut on the leg holes, plus some gentle shaping on the back. Nothing bad to say about these!

Phew! It was a lot of work, but I’m thrilled with the outcome of this mini-series! Did it inspire you to sew any new pairs of underwear for yourself? Or maybe just to think about what your preferences are? Stay tuned, I’m already starting to plan my next series on free bralette patterns next!

how to re-start a tough project

Or, how I picked up a Very Complicated Coat Project that I started 1 1/2 years ago that was sitting, unfinished and unloved, in a dusty corner and haunting me every time I thought about starting a new project.

Working on the Gaia coat, by Small Bobbins

As part of the New Year stock-taking and reflecting on the previous year, I see a lot of sewists commenting on their renewed dedication to get through their pile of WIP’s and UFO’s (works in progress, and un-finished objects). It’s like we all want to start fresh. How can we move on and thrive if our sewing corners are full of piles of cut-out fabric, rather than complete garments that we can make use of?

(Of course, not everybody has a huge pile of languishing and/or abandoned sewing projects, there are some freaks out there who always finish a project before embarking on a new one. I salut those people for their focus!)

During Me Made May last year, I tried to get through a decent portion of my WIP’s after realizing that I was positively drowning in them. And now? Only one remains!

BUT! It’s the biggest and most intimidating WIP of them all. The Gaia coat from Named Clothing. By itself, it’s not a terribly complicated coat. But I had very grand plans of doing all the tailoring, adding interlining, using Very Precious Fabrics, etc etc etc. I cut out the pieces in October 2017 and then… totally lost my nerve.

I’m happy to admit that I am (slowly) making progress on it now. I felt like I reached an ultimatum moment with myself, plus my Cascade coat is ready to die and I really want a new everyday coat; “Are you going to finish this? If not, figure out a way to get rid of it and move on!

In light of this, I put together a little list of advice to hopefully help motivate others who might be feeling overwhelmed about getting back into an unfinished project that’s intimidating them.